Everything but the Girl (with Curves)

Mon, 31 Mar 2008 19:30:05 +0200

Now in its tenth season, former supermodel Tyra Bank's reality cash cow 'America's Next Top Model' is the highest rated show on the popular American CW television network.

For those not familiar with the concept of the show here's the lowdown; A group of wannabe models who have been selected by Tyra and her queer peers (in both the modern and traditional sense of the word) Mr Jay Manuel and Miss Jay Alexander (who is also male but goes by the title of Miss). The chosen wannabes compete in various themed photo shoots and fashion related challenges for what is now the much coveted title of 'America's next top model' and the prizes that come with it. Each week a contestant is eliminated by the judging panel, which takes place after each contestant receives personal feedback on their performance. So far, so standard reality television, which for the most part it is, but if you look deeper into things (yes, I know it's hard to do so when a show is so blatantly superficial) 'America's Next Top Model' is a microcosm of the prejudices that still exist in the fascis...sorry, fashion industry.

One of the most notable characteristics of Top Model is the inclusion of a token 'plus-size' contestant, and eight of the ten cycles have featured them. This in itself has generated a lot of praise for Top Model as it is seen to be showing the diversity in the shapes and sizes of women. It has however, also generated a lot of cynicism as it appears to be just a marketing ploy to keep the viewer demographic happy through relatable reflection. By standard definition, plus-size in America is 14 and upwards;

Plus-size clothing is a general term given to clothing sized specifically for men and women of large build. Plus-size refers specifically to clothing labeled size (US) 14 / (UK) 16 and upwards for women, and for sizes over XL for men.1

Over 60% of women in the US fall into the 'plus-size' category. This fact would imply that a large proportion of the audience are in fact 'plus-size' themselves, and it would arguably be foolish for the producers to not encompass a key aspect of the viewer demographic into the show. The producers are of course, not foolish and have clearly tapped into this school of thought.

Statistics define plus size as 14 and up, which is about 62 percent of American women, according to Des Moines-based Figure magazine.(Grogan, 2008)2

Given the fact that over half the female population of the US is technically 'plus-size', is it not shocking that it is still something of a niche market in the world of fashion?

The presence of a 'plus-size' model in a season also means that there is a concentrated focus, both on the model and her size. It is what makes her stand out, and while in the contest it is what ultimately defines her. Were 'plus-size' girls to feature more heavily in ANTM then this concentrated focus would be diluted, and arguably the show would lose an important aspect of its structure, as much drama and conflict has arisen on the show over the plus-size issue, both internally and externally. Die-hard fashion fascists fear the dictatorial nature of the fashion industry could be somewhat compramised by the presence of plus-sized models, as they would threaten the traditional conventions of exclusivity that surround and define high fashion is only for the thin. And as we all know, dictators do not like it when they are threatened, just look at Kim Jong-il or ageing fashion Nazi Karl Lagerfeld;

"We don't see anorexic (girls). The girls are skinny. They have skinny bones,"3

In the earlier series the 'plus-size' models were eliminated early on in the competition. This changed however, once the issue of size became a prominent feature within Western media. Because of the focus that is still being given to the size issue, 'plus-size' models on 'ANTM' now fare better than they did originally, but only just.

They will be greeted with open arms and praised for being big and beautiful. Full support is given in terms of compliments and recognition of their natural womanly beauty. Janice Dickinson even once commented to 'plus-size' contestant Toccara Jones that she "just might show those skinny bitches a thing or two".Such niceties were soon put to death, as in a later episode Janice lambasted Jones for being overweight. "She's too fat to be a model". Not the usual scathing vitriolic diatribe Miss Dickinson is renowned for, but nasty none the less. So much for supporting the Sisterhood Janice!

In the early stages of the competition support is once again given in reviews of the PS girl?s performance. This pro-plus attitude appears to change dramatically however once the competition approaches the midway point. It is this point that the 'plus-size' models will begin to receive negative feedback relating to her abilities as a potential top model. Some classic negative critiques for plus size models have include loss of confidence, inability to transfer beauty into photographs, a bad understanding of their own features and even losing weight (talk about a rock and a hard place). While these can all be legitimate critiques, it is very hard to see them as anything other than tactful tiptoeing around the size issue, which is blatantly the real reason that the girls get eliminated.

One of the most memorable moments of top model was in season 8, when 'plus-size' models Whitney Cunningham and Diana Zalewski were both facing elimination from the competition. Both were criticised for not being particularly good as passing themselves off as men in a gender swap photo shoot. The comments made by the judges provoked a small wave of outrage amongst fans as it was perceived that the two girls were being criticised for having womanly figures and breasts. To think that two young women, both naturally curvy and amply endowed in the chest department should find it difficult to banish their boobs is quite outrageous, is it not? Well if you are Tyra Banks it is.

On an interesting side note if you?re interested in taking a lesson in modern hypocrisy go to Youtube and search 'Tyra Banks' + 'Fat ass' and revel in Tyra's melodramatic-wannabe-Oprah speech about the ills of media scrutiny and its impact on female self-esteem. Pot, kettle, black?

Anyway, I digress.

The transition from praise to criticism is swift and unflinching and once Tyra starts with the negative, it?s pretty safe for the viewer to assume Gabriel?s trumpet is sounding for the girl with the curves. And for the most part they would be right.

The final phase of the competition sees the remaining contestants (usually 5 to 6 girls) travel to an international destination. Only once has a plus size model managed to make it overseas, and even then the contestant in question, Robin Manning from the first season, was not strictly 'plus-size'. At present no legitimate 'plus-size' contestant has made it higher than 7th place (which is usually the half-way mark in terms of elimination) on 'ANTM'.

It would seem that the plus sized contestants are not brought in to win, but to act as an intelligent ploy to keep the audience sweet and subdued; a pretty diversion to distract from the elitist realities that dominate the introverted, self-righteous world of fashion.

What is perhaps the saddest aspect of the whole situation is that Miss Banks, who regularly professes first hand experiences of the prejudices of the modelling industry, is ultimately perpetuating and them by continually knocking back and undermining the girls who defy the traditional model paradigms. ANTM could, in theory, be an ideal platform for influencing much needed changes within modelling. With a wide impressionable target audience already on board, ANTM could not only entertain, but educate about body image and self-acceptance. This potential has however, sadly been long lost to stringent conventions and the cheap thrills of car-crash reality TV.

Refrences
1:Quote taken from online article entitled 'Plus-Size clothing' on wikipedia. Access 31-03-08 (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plus-size_clothing)

2:Quote taken from online article entitled 'Plus-Size looks are all about the Fashion' by Leslie Grogan. Accessed 31-03-08 (http://www.sacbee.com/107/story/811385.html)

3:Karl Lagerfeld cited in British newspaper 'The Daily Mail' on 04-10-06. Accessed 31-03-08 (http://www.dailymail.co.uk/pages/live/articles/news/news.html?in_article_id=408549&in_page_id=1770)

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Everything but the Girl (with Curves)